Wednesday, June 3, 2009

"Where is your husband?": Essaouira May 30

Said brought us to the bus station early in the morning so we could get to Ess pretty early. After 3 hours, we arrived and asked for directions to Hamouda's (the guy we were to be staying with) riad. We found it, but they said he wouldn't be back that night. We tried to call him, and he didn't answer. We also managed to find out that we couldn't continue our trip from Ess like we thought, and the only way to get to Casa is to go back through Marrakech.

So, we left the riad and decided to enjoy as much of the city as we could. Ess is on the coast, so there was a beautiful beach filled with swimmers and kites, etc. We also spent some time walking through the markets looking at souvenirs, but since this was our first time walking around without a male friend to guide us (AND we were stuck carrying around out big old bags screaming tourist) there was a lot of heckling, cat calls, etc. We eventually settled down for a great tagine (fish because we were by the coast) in a good restaurant along the market streets.

We decided since we had no place to stay and would have to go back to Marrakech anyway, we would call our friends there. Luckily, they were available to meet us, but the car was not working, so we attempted to navigate the public transportation. It would have been fine, but the police spent a while trying to subdue and kick a drunk man off the bus, so we were paused for a while. By the time we got back to the flat, I was so tired I just went to bed.

Desert trip continued: May 29

So I slept in the desert tent, but apparently my area had a hole in one of the rugs, so I woke up covered in sand... everywhere. I also woke up about 2 hours before everyone so I took some time to sit outside and watch the wind storm reform the dunes. It was unreal - like the scenery was being created while I watched. Eventually everyone woke up and we had a little breakfast and hopped back on the camels to get back to a road at the edge of the desert.

We stopped in Ouzazarte for lunch and a little shopping. I went into one of the shops and was talking to a man who showed me how to tie the traditional berber headscarf and he ended up selling it to me for 50 Dirham instead of 200 after I sat down and talked to him a bit. Anyway, we hopped on the minibus and drove the rest of the way back to Marrakech only stopping for tea a couple times along the way. We were dropped off and our friend Said was supposed to meet us, but apparently we weren't dropped off back at the agency, so we spent some time wandering in the Medina trying to find our meeting spot.

When we made it back to our friend's flat, we finally got to shower off some sand. We met up with the other guys, the showed us some of the pictures of their families' village, a few friends stopped by and we spent another evening just chatting, talking politics, etc. until the early morning. We all exchanged info. and said goodbye before going to bed because Megan and I would be leaving Marrakech in the morning for Essaouira.

Monday, June 1, 2009

To the Dunes! : Desert tour May 28

We woke up around 6 to get to the agency in the city center by 7. We were a little late and there was nobody there, but it turns out everyone was just late. We paid for our tour and got on the minibus when it arrived. There were about 15 people on the tour from all over the world. It was crazy how we all managed to get along with so many languages floating around the car.

We fell asleep for a while and woke up in the middle of the Atlas mountains - the Tichka. It was beautiful! We took a little break to take pics and get a snack and it was just crazy how much different scenery we saw. There was everything from desert/cactus to waterfalls, snowy mountains, palm trees, and mini forests. We drove on and took another break at a real bathroom and happened to run into Isham who was leading a different tour to the desert that day.

We drove quite a bit and stopped for lunch at a nice restaurant and giant Kasbah (old city center like a giant sand castle). A guy was charging entrance but we told him we didn't know if we wanted to go in so he let us in for free since we were "nice girls". We eventually went back to pay him after wandering around for a while, but he was doing his afternoon prayers.

Then, we continued on to meet the camels on the edge of the real desert. We had 3 camel trains for all of us and 3 berber guides to go with. Megan and I named our camels Elfie and Gertrude. Let me just say it's a weird experience when a camel stands up for the first time. They do the back legs first so you feel like you're going to be thrown off the front. Yikes! We rode a few hours into the desert to meet our camp - a big Berber tent where they would make us dinner over a fire and teach us traditional drumming and dancing. Unfortunately, the bathroom tent had blown away in a desert storm the previous week. This wasn't so bad at night because you could just wander away from camp and find a sand dune, but in the morning, it got a bit awkward. I spent some time with the camp leader - Mohammed, who told me all about the values and principles of living in the desert. He also gave us new names. I am Fatima and Megan is Latifah and we've been called that by everyone ever since. Anyway, after a chicken tagine, tea, and vegetables, we all sat around talking before the Berber men started drumming and we all talked and danced in the desert until the early hours of the morning.

Bienvenue en Afrique: Marrakech May 27

We took the early train to the airport in Paris, and of course our flight was delayed. We arrived at the Marrakech airport a couple hours late, greeted by Arabic writing on sand colored buildings. This was NOT Europe. :) We walked in and attempted to go through customs but first had to check in to make sure we didn't have the swine flu. When we finally made it to the arrivals area - about 2 hours late - Said and Isham were waiting for us. We got into their Range Rover and headed over to their flat where we met the people they lived with: Ahmet, Rafik, Abdo, and his brother.

We hadn't really eaten all day so I was really grateful when they showed us how to make a Tagine (traditional Moroccan food with meat and vegetables cooked over fire) almost as soon as we arrived. The boys were some great cooks. Also, they showed us how to eat "like Berbers" with just bread and our hands, all together from the same plate. All of us just sat around getting to know each other for a while in the kitchen which consisted of some small leather chairs, a sink, cabinet, and a low table to sit at.

My next shocker was the bathroom. I was somewhat prepared, but still a little surprised. It had one of those toilets that is pretty much just a porcelain hole in the ground. The shower/sink/ toilet flushing mechanism consisted of a cold water spigot and a pail. It was definitely different, but it worked.

Anyway, we continued on to the old market which was craaazy amazing. We walked in and were greeted with snake charmers, pet monkeys, street vendors, beggars, everything you can imagine. The boys helped us get a good price on henna tattoos so Megan and I each got that done. Then they took us for some delicious fresh squeezed orange juice, special Moroccan bread, sweet tea, special chocolate dessert, and a tea made from probably 50 different spices. I almost exploded. :) Anyway, the men there were real gentlemen and wouldn't let us girls pay for anything... kind of a nice change from America. Ha! Well, we finally went into the Souks and I was overwhelmed by the size. There were literally thousands and thousands of scarves, slippers, leather bags, silver jewelry - shop after shop.

We got a bit tired and decided to head home since we would be heading to the desert in the morning, but realized we didn't know where to meet in the morning. Luckily Said knew quite a bit about tourism in the city and he ran around and found our agency for us. Then, it was back to the flat, but the traffic was crazy. Two lanes of traffic held 4 or 5, cutting people off is normal, and there seemed to be no speed limit. Donkeys, horse carriages, cars, motor bikes holding entire families, cabs with 7 people in them all shared the roads as well. Anyway, they boys planned a small party for what was supposed to be our only night in Marrakech and we all ended up dancing, talking, and having lots of fun until around 2 in the morning.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Pictures

Sorry for the lack of pictures everyone. Unfortunately, I have not had access to a computer with the capabilities to upload. I will post some as soon as I can! :)

Paris: May 25 and 26

Monday morning, we got up early to repack everything and get ready to catch the bus to Paris. We arrived so early that we were able to hop on a bus that left an hour earlier than planned. :) This was a good thing since it took almost 4 hours to get there. We arrived, hopped on the metro, got off on the wrong stop and walked probably .75 miles to find our hotel with all of our stuff. I was joking that we would end up at the top because I always did when we were in Paris. Well, we checked in and the man told us we were in room 31... on the 6th floor... up the spiral staircase... with no elevator. It was actually kind of funny as we each had about 40+ pounds of stuff to carry with us.

Anyway, we checked in, bought some groceries for lunch, took a few pictures at Notre Dame de Paris, and just wandered the area. Eventually, we hung out in an internet cafe for a while trying to figure out the details of the rest of our trip. We walked around, got a crepe for dinner, and walked around the Latin Quarter. We almost went home but decided to go into a bar along the road because they had Sangria on special. We made friends with all of the hosts and finally left a little after midnight. Unfortunately, it was raining and I didn't have and umbrella so I walked a couple miles or so in the rain... not pretty.

We hopped in bed and slep the morning away on Tuesday. After getting organized, we didn't make it out to the city until around 3, but we still managed to grab some pain au chocolat, head over to the Arc de Triomphe, walk over to the Eiffel Tower to take some pics and then take the metro to where we thought the Moulin Rouge was. It's really too bad nobody in Paris seems to actually know where it is. We asked about 5 people and after piecing everything together... we realized that we still had about a mile to walk. We finally made it there but just took some pictures since tickets for shows were running up to 180 euros. Too rich for me. I think the plan is now to head back to the Latin Quarter to find a nice dinner, head home, and then catch a flight to Morocco in the morning. :)

Monday, May 25, 2009

Brussels: May 23 and 24

We made it to Irina in Brussels without too much hassle. The metro is under construction, so we have to take a bus every time we want to go from central station to her house, but it's not terrible. Anyway, we arrived and it felt so good to be in the city again. The three of us (Megan, Irina, and I) ran some errands around town, and decided to go catch a movie to relax for the evening. Then, we just wandered around town, got some gelatto and Belgian fries and hung out in Grand Place for the evening.

When we got back to Irina's that evening, she tried to teach us a Russian card game, but Megan and I were having the HARDEST time figuring it out. I think we finally got it in the end.

Then, in the morning, it was time to go back to my old church in Brussels. We got up early, stopped off at the bakery, and hopped on public transport all the way to church. When I got there, I was able to see Thomas, Tornike, Erika, Edjun, Damien, Sajjad, Patrick, ...everyone! It was wonderful! :) Unfortunately, there was no young adults group meeting afterwards so a few of us decided to go out to lunch. Damien, Megan, Sajjad, Irina and I ended up wandering around Brussels following Sajjad for almost an hour I think trying to decide on a place for lunch. Finally, we ended up eating at the same place we always went to when I was living there last year. Afterwards, we found Megan some Belgian chocolate and went to visit the Delirium (home of over 2000 beers). Finally, we got some ice cream again and relaxed in a park for a while before deciding we should go back and meet Irina. Surprise though... Irina called and said Brigitte would be able to come meet us so we turned around and met the girls at central station and went out for some cocoa at the Exki. The people were so nice, they let us stay until over a half hour after they closed... just the four of us catching up. Then, back to Irina's to practice some cards and get to sleep.

Friday, May 22, 2009

Improvements

Ok, things have gotten much better. Well, I arrived in Belgium after the last train back to Amsterdam so I had to stay. I was supposed to have met Megan near baggage claim but she thought I had missed my flight or something, so she went back to Amsterdam. The ticket booth was already closed, and I almost missed the last train to Brussels Centrale. I hopped on the train, found the conductor and paid him on the spot and then found a nice guy on the train who let me use his phone. I got ahold of my good friend Irina from my old church in Belgium. We were supposed to stay with her this weekend, but she was nice enough to let me stay with her once I arrived in Belgium. She was amazing and came to meet me at the central station, brought me back to her house and I FINALLY got to take a shower and have some mint tea, relax, and get some sleep. Although.. at this point, I still didn't know yet that Megan had made it to Amsterdam.

I checked my email, found out she was there and decided to take one of the first trains there in the morning to try to meet Megan by 11. Irina and I got some delicious croissants, and headed for the train station. There were some delays, so my train didn't get into Amsterdam until almost 11:30. I started walking towards where the hostel was and was lucky enough to find Megan in the street. United at last! :0)

We spent a few hours trying to be good tourists in Amsterdam(seeing all the essentials: canals, tulips, clogs, etc.). Then, I went to call my friend Sara to tell her we were coming to meet her in her city, but I didn't have a working European phone. We ended up calling from the police station because nobody seemed to know where the payphone was. We arrived at the train station in Den Haag (Sara's city) and hopped in her friend's car to head to the beach. We tried some Dutch pancakes at a cute little restaurant and umm... Megan and I started feeling really odd, but we decided to go on a long walk through the paths in the dunes. Our two groups got seperated, and eventually we all ended up meeting on the beach, relaxing, and playing in the water of the North sea a bit. It was nice, and by the end of it, we had probably more than a 10 km or at least 6 mile walk on the beach.

I was so jet-lagged and exhausted by that point so Sara made us some dinner and I fell asleep really soon after. Then, the next morning, we slept in and took a train to visit this cute, traditional Dutch town called Delft. We had lunch along the canals, had our first ice cream in Europe, and bought little wooden shoes.

Finally, we took the train back to Den Haag to explore a little bit. We decided we wanted to try Heineken here but most of the places weren't open. We walked into a little street cafe and ordered a beer. They said ok, but couldn't seem to find them. Finally, they gave them to us, but they were warm - so we choked them down and went to meet Sara after she got off of work. We went to this AMAZING Korean restaurant and tried some really interesting foods. We all left to walk around Den Haag for a bit and see some more of the sites, headed back to Sara's to watch a movie and get some sleep. Tomorrow morning, Megan and I will be headed back to Brussels to see Irina and all of the good people at IBC. Things are looking up!

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

A trip with Amber: CHAOS

So - first they didn't have me registered as having purchased a ticket when I arrived in Minneapolis. Then, I was already there a few hours earlier than normal since I came with a friend who was on an earlier flight.

Then, we boarded on schedule, but sat on the plane for 2 hours while the air conditioner did not work... it was over 100 degrees for 2 hours. Then they had us get off so they could do maintenance work, and finally had us get back on at 10:30. I rode between a Turkish man named Rem, and a Hungarian grandpa named Peter.... who didn't speak any English and needed alot of help figuring everything out with the delays. It was a little chaotic, but we got along well. Didn't arrive in Amsterdam until more than 4 hours after I was supposed to and then was delayed on my flight to Brussels until 9:15 that night. I'm frantically trying to find a place to stay in Brussels since we will have missed the last train to Amsterdam by the time I arrive. Off to try to catch my flight to Brussels. Here we go again...

Friday, March 13, 2009

Planning again...

So, my last entry was from Poland, almost 10 months ago. I never finished posting about the end of my trip to Europe, because I didn't have convenient internet access. However, it was amazing, wonderful, and everything I could have ever dreamed of. Then, I flew home and got caught up in the chaos of finding a job and getting ready to start school. Well, all in all, I've been home in the U.S. for almost 9 months.

And I'm going stir-crazy.

Naturally, this means I'm planning another trip. I'll be leaving on May 19 on a flight to Belgium. I will only be there a few days, but will be visiting quite a few other places. In general, my tentative itinerary is as follows:

Belgium (Brussels, LLN?), Netherlands (Amsterdam, Rotterdam), France (Paris), Morocco (Casablanca, Marrakech, Rabat, Essaouira, Fes, suggestions?), France (Marseilles, Cannes?, Nice, Monaco, suggestions?), Switzerland (Basel, Interlaken?), Turkey (Izmir, Istanbul, Inner Anatolia, suggestions?)

All in all, I'm pretty excited. I will be gone for just over 6 weeks, and will get a chance to visit many of the amazing people I met while I was traveling last year. Wish me luck, and send me suggestions please!